
Who says good food has to cost a lot? Certainly, I love a fantastically complicated and expensive meal (especially when someone else is buying), but often the best cuisine can be found at little hole-in-the-wall places. These establishments are usually operated by their owners and have found their niche by preparing delicious food at reasonable prices. My favorites are the ones that have found a specialty and over the years, perfected it. You may never get rich running one of these places, but I’ve found that the owners take tremendous pride in their specialty—something money can’t buy.
Living in downtown Oakland, I spotted a sign reading, “Cervantes The Original Mexican Sandwich,” and my curiosity was piqued. What is the original Mexican sandwich? Visions of what this legendary concoction could be swirled around my head. While I discovered that there’s nothing on the menu actually called the original Mexican sandwich, I was pleased to find a small shop preparing fresh and tasty sandwiches with great daily specials.
Judging from the patrons I saw, everyone in the neighborhood loves the owner Frank—it’s no wonder, he’s very friendly and clearly loves his customers back. As he explained it, the place got its name because they were the probably the first ones to start putting jalapenos and red onions—more spicy and Mexican-inspired condiments—on their sandwiches before it was popular. The original owner, Efren Rivera started with a location in San Francisco in 1962. He opened the location in Oakland in 1977, closing the San Francisco store fifteen years ago. Frank says he bought the business seven years ago and hasn’t changed a thing, except for adding his popular barbecue tri tip on Thursdays and spare ribs on Fridays.
Everything is fresh at Cervantes, with Frank preparing a whole turkey and chicken breasts every day for his sandwiches. One patron, Ukay, was enjoying the spare ribs when I stopped by. “These ribs are excellent—they’re my Friday treat. I try to eat right, but on Friday, I come in here and I have this,” he said. “They’re really good and tender, and the sauce is great—it’s kind of in-between hot and mild, a nice medium.” I’ve had Frank’s ribs, and I must agree—they’re literally fall-off-the-bone tender and the sauce packs enough of a punch to enhance the flavor and not overwhelm. You better get there early though, he was already sold out by 12:30 on this Friday afternoon. He gives you a very generous portion for $8.50, including bread and potato salad. I’ve also had the turkey sandwich, and it was tender and had lots of flavor—something you can only achieve by making whole bird fresh. With sandwich prices ranging from $4-$6, they’re an excellent bargain. A wave of nostalgia swept over me as I spotted a sardine sandwich on the menu—my father’s favorite. How many places have that? Cervantes also offers a daily hot sandwich special, salads, and wraps, as well as breakfast sandwiches and burritos.
Although I was disappointed to find that there was no original Mexican sandwich, I was pleased to find this little gem of a sandwich shop in downtown Oakland with its affable owner.
Cervantes the Original Mexican Sandwich
320 E. 17th St.
Oakland
(510) 836-2077
Fax: (510) 836-2074
Catering services available.
